Friday, April 30, 2010

Review of Gundlach Bundschu, 2007 Cabernet Franc, Estate Vineyard

Dark, complicated, and consistent. As the phantom falls from the bottle, the eye can’t resist but indulging in the ravishing siren of a shade. Not a predictable or facile character. This ghostly muse, one of many channels and harmonies, flavors and potentials. Nose conveying the floral shade, in soft sensual strokes, gently augmented by rich berries. When the 84% Cab Franc, 16% Cab Sauvignon, 2% Merlot leaps to your lips, the complication blossoms, revealing inveigling character in the notes of dark chocolate, persistent espresso, and rich, savory, damp soil. Her chocolate fervor carries for more than a cluster of minutes on finish.
Ingenious approach to an otherwise difficult wine. No dryness, just diligence in character and flavor. It has a certain haunting effect, a playful presence which begets the lasting impression I hope for my wines to have. Flavors layer and interact admirably, consistent character with a salve to each sip. So I sip, sip...

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